Dining Out, Dinner, Manhattan, Upper West SideKerry Alaric CheeseboroFebruary 23, 2012biscuit, buttermilk, cheese, cheesy, chicken, compote, cranberry, Dining Out, Dinner, fried chicken, fruit, gravy, grits, Jacob's, Jacob's Pickles, jam, liver, onion, pickles, preserve, preserves, sauce, sausage, sausage gravy, savory, smothered, sticks, sweet, toast, Upper West Side, UWSComment

Jacob's Latter

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SO, LET IT FIRST BE known that I did not have any pickles. Since the place first opened a mere few months ago, much has been written about the variety and high quality of Jacob's Pickles' vinegar-brined cukes and other garden-grown vittles. Most of the reviews I've read come off as obligated to, as an afterthought, mention that the kitchen at Jacob's is also churning out Southern-realized dishes from its menu as well, as an afterthought.

Yet a quick perusal of their online menu interested me with the promise of such comforts as shrimp and grits and biscuits with sausage gravy, and with the daylight hours finally getting long enough to still provide day light at 5 p.m.—when Jacob's Pickles opens—a quick trip crosstown on the M86 had me at their long, roomy, cozily-styled space within minutes, with its row of banquets, communal tables, and even a fridge promoting their various mason-jarred pickles and "growler" sizes of beer.

Jacob's Pickles

Jacob's Pickles Menu

The menu boasts a great assortment of pickles and pickled items to enjoy in-house or to take home, including hot sours, sour green tomatoes, and candy red beets. The one that first interested me was the salt & pepper asparagus, which I was unfamiliar with. I knew those would have to wait for another visit, because I had already had my eyes, mouth, and heart set on trying the chicken liver jam, accompanied with onion compote and cranberry preserves, all to be spread onto "biscuit toast". I was also eager, if not more so, to dive into a homemade biscuit sandwich with sausage gravy-topped buttermilk fried (boneless) chicken, served with a side bowl of cheese grits.

I requested to have them served at the same time, so I could snap some decent "flash"-less pictures with the little remaining natural sunlight time I had left.

Chicken liver jam, onion compote, cranberry preserves

Chicken liver jam, biscuit toast

Onion compote, biscuit toast

The chicken liver jam was robust with bold, natural liver flavor—with little of the "minerality"—and beautifully unctuous in texture. The onion compote excelled in highlighting the bulbs natural sweetness and complexity, and the cranberry preserves were pleasantly light on the added sugar, letting the berry's tartness shine without overwhelming the tongue. I even enjoyed combining spreads in varying permutations on the expertly toasted, buttery sticks of biscuits.

Sausage gravy-smothered buttermilk fried chicken with biscuit

This style of biscuit—a huge square tile of buttery, crumbly, moist nostalgia—served the sausage gravy-smothered buttermilk fried chicken just as dandily. The delicious buttermilk fried chicken's taste and juiciness easily reminded me of many happy South Carolina family dinners, while the sausage gravy, while surprisingly light on the flour, was abundant with a variety of spices, the whole combination in each forkful being a delight to every section of my palate. Even the cheese grits, understated simple with just the hint of cheddar to compliment the grains savory properties and add a creamier texture to each spoonful.

The portions are righteous in size, sparing me no room to even consider taking some salt & pepper asparagus home. (As I right this now the following afternoon, I have still yet to eat since!) But I know I will return to Jacob's Pickles soon enough. And even though the place has been touted and touts itself formerly as a pickle joint, it should take proud in , at least, the two dishes that came hot from the kitchen with panache, alacrity, and soul. So, yes, it's a pickle place, but it's a fine Southern-minded restaurant as well. Even if you're drawn in by the former ideology, be sure to enjoy the latter as well.

Bun Apple Tea!

KACnyc

Kerry Alaric Cheeseboro