For You
PER LEI | 1347 Second Ave. (corner of 71st St.) | 212.439.9200 | perleinyc.com | 
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IT WAS A UNIQUE SET of events that provided me the opportunity to finally try out the neo-classical Italian dishes at long-popular Yorkville restaurant Per Lei. But after having my friend and neighbor Gina join me for what became a thoroughly-coursed lunch, I now know it will require no such serendipity to make any of many future visits.
Per Lei (which translates "for her") is part of a triumvirate of Upper East Side eateries overseen by Enrico Proietti, the two others being BARAONDA and BELLA BLUE. And like those two other likewise popular spots, Per Lei's décor welcomes incoming patrons with a veritable feast for the eyes, its crisp, clean tables and settings soothing with its classy comfort, and the works of Italian artist Fabrizio Musa (available for commission) adorning its walls with highlights of color and the portraits of beautiful women (including the owner's wife).
The menu gave a fun language lesson, as all the dishes are listed in Italian, with their English translations in their descriptions. The dishes ran the gamut of classic regional Italian fare, most with a modern flourish, noticed immediately as their serving of the typical bread with olive oil featured their version of the olive oil blessed with tomatoes and herbs.
Gina and I make a good time, being able to order dishes appealing to one's personal preference as well as the other's curiosity. She started with a plate of pan-fried artichokes and I opened with a salad of honey-poached pears and arugula salad with pistachios and gorgonzola.
Gina's artichokes aromatic and earthy, layered with homey, rustic flavors yet still light on the palate. They were splendid with texture as well with pillowy soft interiors, toothsome exteriors, and crispy edges. (This was an expertly simple yet fully realized dish that would foretell the excellence of the rest of the meal.)
My pear and arugula salad was bright and fresh, the sweetness of the pears perfectly complimented by the peppery greens. The gorgonzola added tart and salty creaminess, with the entire dish highlighted by the nutty crunch of the pistachios.
The kind, informed, and attentive manager Eric recommended an off-the-menu antipasti platter (of Black Label Parma prosciutto, arugula salad, roasted peppers, fresh strawberries, and their house-made burrata) to sample while we decided on our main courses.
Burrata is traditional Italian cheese made from mozzarella and cream, usually served in a ball that's firmer on the outside and creamier on the inside. Drizzled here with olive oil, it milky properties make a great base to support other more intense flavors, such as the natural saltines and concentrated flavor of some premium prosciutto di Parma. The roasted red peppers add robustness when you want it, the arugula its peppery brightness, and the fresh strawberries are pleasant palate cleanser.
While finishing the antipasti, we scanned the mains on the menu and put in the order for my seafood salad course, Gina's spaghetti with tomato and basil, and my pasta dish of gnocchi in black truffle cream sauce.
My subtly dressed medley of baby shrimp, lump crab meat, octopus, calamari, and sepia (cuttlefish), was light and refreshingly tasty, with kudos going to the chef for executing the octopus expertly.
Gina's deceptively pedestrian sounding spaghetti with tomatoes and fresh basil, again, speaks to the pride the kitchen takes in making the priority the quality of the cooking—and not the cleverness of being overly creative as many Italian restaurants as is the case with a growing number of modern" Italian restaurants—proven by the properly al dente spaghetti, the delicious, rich, deep yet light tomato sauce that clung to it, and the sweet, floral, aromatic fresh basil that highlighted the dish without overwhelming it.
I was very happy with the pillowy softness of my gnocchi, which appreciatively dissolved in my mouth with just scant pressure of my tongue. And as I am a big fan of truffle, I always prefer having shaved truffle in my dishes, instead of truffle oil. This dish seemed to have both, which didn't hurt the dish, "per se", but the oil lingered on the tongue a little too long after each swallow and eventually, for me, became too prominent, taste-wise as well as aromatically.
Although the portions were more than adequate—without being "gluttonous—Gina and I were so impressed with the meal by this point that we just had to dive into a few desserts. So much so that we actually ordered three of them. (We actually wanted the same three!)
We of course couldn't do Italian without trying their tiramisu. We furthered our now over-indulgence with their tartufo (cocoa-covered Italian gelato) as well as their mascarpone N.Y. cheesecake with blueberry maramalade.
The tiramisu exemplified everything that one loves about the classic dessert, the airy, almost cloudy texture of the custard, the tasty spike of espresso, and the not-over-drenched of lady fingers soaked, via Per Lei's twist, in Grand Marnier (instead of rum).
The tartufo featured two flavors of smooth, chilled gelato, covered generously in tongue-pleasing cocoa powder so each mouthful started and ended with a nice concentration of chocolate yumminess.
And adding mascarpone to the iconic New York cheesecake made for welcomed extra creaminess, and its inherent slight acidity help cut through the slick sweetness of robustly flavorful blueberries.
What a thoroughly enjoyable first visit for both me and Gina, and we are anxious to revisit Per Lei soon to sit at their outdoor seating and try out their brunch items—eggs benedict with lobster; ham, mushroom, gruyère crepes with béchamel; ricotta pancakes with the same awesome blueberry marmalade! (Added bonus, they also offer 50% off all wine bottles—$50 or more—all day, Monday and Tuesday.)
So although Gina and I are happy to know such an excellent is here in our neighborhood for us, Per Lei is indeed not just "for her", but for you too.
Bun Apple Tea!
KACNYC
PER LEI | 1347 Second Ave. (corner of 71st St.) | 212.439.9200 | perleinyc.com | | |
