Italian

For You

PER LEI | 1347 Second Ave. (corner of 71st St.) | 212.439.9200 | perleinyc.com

Loafing Off


...I treated myself to a meatloaf layered into tastes, textures, aromas, and depth, flavorful meats of various fattiness absorbing the aromatics of the ingredients inside it, served with a sturdy yet light side of potatoes for the bold notes of the tomato, vinegar, basil, and capers to stand on... [Full Post »]
Stuffed Italian Meatloaf

Elio's-Centric


...I had forgotten how the rest of the city—the world—kind of falls away when I'm at Elio's. The dishes were simple yet expertly executed, channelling many layers of "home cooking comfort". My veal was so tender that my butter knife sliced straight through it in one motion.... [Full Post]
Elio's Veal Parmesan

Sweet-aly

...The food Parthenon that is Eataly, divined by restauranteurs and celebrity chefs Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich brings a spectacular culinary museum of Italian cuisine to the masses, who are literally and figuratively eating it up.... [Full post]



Tre Bene

...He first recommended the truffle egg toast appetizer off the pane-bruschetta menu section. The dish consists of two egg yolks baked on bread, and topped with fontina cheese and truffle oil. The offer the option of adding grated bottarga on top, and me being a new fan of it, decided it was worth the extra three bucks.... [Full post]



Make A Date For Tiella

...My tiella showed up looking and smelling wonderful, and they were excellently executed. A smear of foie gras, being deep with flavor, does its usual, mouth-watering wonders for the palette, with its minimal use not playing nicely with the prosciutto—San Daniele being "daintier" than most—and both rewarding the light yet firm crust and the earthy, grounding melted mozzarella.... [Full post]



Getting Ziggy With It

...A very decent pie this was. A nice, pliable but not doughy crust, with a thin strong fold but without the more the more New York-style "crisp". The cheeses were traditionally rustic and aromatic, the sausage buoyantly spicy and sweet, and all of it drizzled with a clean and earthy olive oil that brought all the good flavors together with each bite... [Full post]



My Little Sweet Potato

...The sweet potato, surprisingly novel in this incarnation, was full of welcomingly palatable properties, with its firm but pliant texture evocative of mellow, almost fruity pumpkin, yet also offering the savory nuance of a squash or eggplant.... [Full post]



Catching Up


...The fennel and bottarga pie was rich with layers of flavor, from the citrus-hued piquancy of the fennel to the earthiness of the bottarga, which boasts the same flavor property—almost—as anchovies, with more subdued salinity and brininess.... [Full post]

With A Little Help From My Friends

...This dish appeared and tasted pleasantly bright and rustic. The pasta—thicker-than-most "thread" pasta—supported and hugged all the flavors of the rendered pork fat, garlic, lemon, and butter extremely well, while starting and ending each bite with, first, the aroma of truffles in the cheese on top, then, lastly, the flavor of truffle.... [Full post]



Torrisi, You're My Hero!

...After the first bite, I had a better idea of how Lois Lane must have felt the first time she hooked up with Superman. Usually—or, often, Italian combos get so overdressed that they mask and cover the individual flavors of the separate deli meats. Not here!... [Full post...]



What Up, Home Slice?

...Many of the these places have continued the evolution of the vegetable slice, which, back in the day, started with just peppers and/or onions, then mushrooms, then eggplant, then spinach, then broccoli.... [full post]



Saintly Pizza

...I am always surprised to find that most people don't know where the name Two Boots comes from. Both the country of Italy and the state of Lousiana are shaped like boots, so the food represents most Italian-style pizza reinvented with more traditional Louisiana foods, such as crawfish, andouille sausage, spicy peppers, and their indigenously ubiquitous cornmeal, which is the base flour in their pizza dough.... [cont.]



A Visit from My Italian Grandmother

...All things in a vacuum this was not. I was hungover, hungry, tempted by the slices I saw on the Serious Eats blog, and half medicated with Tylenol PM when I started eating. And since I need only that pizza be made by people who want to make good food, and not just a lot of it, to make me happy, I was made happy.... [cont.]


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An Italian Surprise


Shrimp-Stuffed Hot Italian Sausage Meatballs | Red Wine-Braised Tomato Sauce over Spaghetti | Basil-Garlic Bread
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Happy PorkDay To Me

...Pork's universal appeal has always been in its unique collection of a variety of taste properties. Salty in parts, fatty, chewy, crispy, sweet. juicy, tender, meaty, etc.; the porchetta I was enjoying exemplified all of these traits, and winningly so.... [Full post]